We’re all feeling the pinch these days, and with a relatively volatile housing market in the UK, many homeowners are choosing to improve their existing properties rather than go through the hassle of selling their current home and the expense of buying a new home. Updating a bathroom when you’re short on cash can be done – just follow these excellent tips for getting that fresh look and feel without breaking the bank.

Updating a bathroom at minimal cost:

• Refresh before you invest – Sometimes your bathroom just looks dull and grimy because, well actually, it is simply dirty. Get your rubber gloves and strong cleaning fluids out and give the place a really thorough scrub down, concentrating particularly on the grout between your porcelain tiles and the areas around your sink and bath. Thick bleach can work wonders on discoloured grout, but caulk and grout are very inexpensive to buy, so consider re-grouting your wall and floor tiles if they cannot be cleaned to rid your room of those unsightly black lines and you might just be surprised by how fresh and new the place can look without the expense of replacing the ceramic tiles.
• Paint it fresh – Adding a lick of paint to a tired, grubby bathroom that has seen better days can work wonders for the atmosphere and look. For a great contemporary look, choose a bright colour for a feature wall and buy new towels and accessories to match the bold colour, or go for a funky wall covering on one wall with a neutral paint colour in the rest of the space.
• Accessorise to bring it alive – Investing in new accessories is one of the most cost effective of all ways to bring back to life an otherwise boring, dated bathroom. Going for bold colours for the towels, soap dish, mats and tumblers will add a splash of modern brilliance and make it feel like a brand new space. Try adding bright silk flowers to further enhance the look or a new blind if your budget will stretch that far.
• See the light – Consider a new way of lighting your bathroom. If you currently have an outdated ceiling light, consider replacing this with a halogen spotlight bar for an instant, modern look. The brighter light will make the bathroom feel cleaner and is one of the best wasy of updating a bathroom, and if you angle the spots artistically you could use them to pick out particular features you are proud of, such as window decorations or pictures.
• Go with what you have – If you are stuck with an outdated bathroom suite in a horrible shade of avocado or peach, then rather than fighting it, why not go with it? Coloured bathroom suites are right out of fashion at the moment, but if you work with the pallet you have when you are painting or papering the walls you could really bring it all together in a more modern way. Most bath panels can be customised with vinyl or acrylics, so consider making a feature of what you have to, perhaps not bring it bang up to date, but at least make it quirky on a budget.

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If you currently have a ceramic tiled floor or even porcelain tiles, you will know that they look good and are easy to maintain but if you are thinking about changing the design of your room (or just the flooring), whether it is your kitchen, bathroom, hallway or conservatory, then no decision will be complete without considering natural stone tiles as an option.

You may think your budget will not stretch to natural stone but they are available in a range of prices so don’t discount them until you have checked out what’s available. But before thinking about the cost, why would you want to choose natural stone in the first place?

Flooring is a key design element in any home that can set the whole tone of a space, but it is not easy or cheap to replace and often needs to fit with a range of styles should you decide to alter your décor over time. So it is important for both design and cost consequences that you make the right choice first time.

Natural stone is beautiful and durable with individual characteristics that simply can’t be matched by mass-produced ceramic or porcelain tiles, which are all the same and offer no interest to the viewer. Certainly porcelain tiles now come in “natural stone” effect but these are usually poor imitations of the real thing because they do not contain the natural variations and slight imperfections that make natural stone so unique.

But even though stone tiles are durable, they do need good, thorough maintenance and will need to be sealed with an appropriate sealant after installation. You will be able to get advice from a reputable supplier about the particular products best suited to different types of stone.

But more importantly than all of this is the look of the tiles and your own personal preference about what sort of design statement you want to make. Will it be ultra-contemporary, traditional, rustic or classically understated? All of these personal preferences will influence your choice. Marble is perfect for a classic, luxurious look or slate for the ideal rustic flooring in a country cottage. Highly polished limestone creates a contemporary feel and some travertine floor tiles manage to combine elegance with a rustic edge. All are impressive.

Don’t forget to think about how the colour of the floor will complement your furniture, fittings, accessories and artwork. Pale golden limestone floor tiles are a perfect background for a neutral design scheme or a bolder one using bright colours. On the other hand dark slate tiles or black marble will define the design scheme and can mean that other items in a room have to be chosen carefully to avoid the scheme becoming over-dark (or worse, drab and depressing).

But natural stone is versatile and can look great anywhere providing the style and colour is selected carefully to suit your own personal style of interiors. It can be a key element that creates harmony between a number of different rooms.

Thinking About Marble? Possibly the Best Natural Stone Floor Tiles

If you have the budget to splash out on marble tiles you will not regret it. They have a unique beauty that simply cannot be matched by any other type of tiles.

Many people when they buy a property and move house for the first time will not have a huge budget to splash out on luxuries like natural stone, solid wood floors and designer furniture and accessories so they will typically choose lower end products that can still be used to create a beautiful home without the expense. But what if you have been through this process before (maybe many times) where you sacrificed quality for cost?

If you have chosen less expensive alternatives for flooring, for example, then you are likely to have discovered over time that the cheaper options simply do not last as long or wear as well. They also tend to be products in fashionable colours or finishes that date quickly. Laminate wood floors will start to peel at the edges and slate effect tiles will chip to reveal that the colour does not go right through the body of the tile.

So it’s true that you get what you pay for but sometimes we simply don’t have the choice to spend what we want on a flooring product for our home. But if you are now in a position to choose the very best products and are determined to no longer sacrifice quality for cost then there is nothing better than natural stone floor tiles; it is both beautiful and hard-wearing.

One of the best things about a natural stone floor is the individual characteristics and distinctive colours apparent in each tile. But there are so many different varieties of natural stone that it is sometimes difficult to make a choice. The is travertine, slate, marble or limestone as well as a whole range of more unusual stones and they all come in different finishes and naturally different colours.

Take marble, for example, most people know about the beautiful, fine Carrara marble from Italy with its pure white background complemented by veining in a variety of shades and quantity. The colour and amount of veining is the main factor in deciding the quality and, of course, the cost. Pure white marble tiles are the most sought-after and the most expensive whereas marble tiles with plenty of veining are cheaper although many people like the beauty of the veining and the fact that it shows that the tiles are real marble.

There are also a number of well-regarded marbles from Spain such as Marfil marble, which, like Italian marble, is graded and categorised according to the amount and type of veining and other variations within the finished stone floor tiles. Those with the least veining are again the most expensive but, as with Carrara marble tiles, cheaoer versions are often just as attractive, particularly if you like the natural variations and characteristics across individual tiles.

If money really is no object then there are also some very rare forms of marble that are quite outstanding, such as the black Marquina marble from Italy. But, equally, there are other less well known types of marble in a range of colours and for prices to suite a variety of budgets. You might be considering ceramic tiles for their good value or porcelain tiles for their ease of maintenance but if you are seeking a truly distinctive look then nothing beats marble wall or floor tiles.

What about Terracotta Tiles?

Traditional unglazed terracotta tiles require regular, time-consuming maintenance but glazed terracotta offers all the charm and beauty of the material without the maintenance headache. All thanks to technological advances in their manufacture.

Traditionally made terracotta tiles are, without doubt, beautiful but many people are discouraged from using them in their homes because they are concerned about the high levels of maintenance required to keep them looking good. The thought of sealing the tiles regularly can be a deterrent to many people especially when there are contemporary alternatives such as porcelain tiles which require minimal maintenance, if any.

But there are, in fact, two types of terracotta tiles manufactured now: the more typical unglazed tiles, which do, indeed, require extensive maintenance, but also glazed tiles which require minimal maintenance.

Unglazed terracotta has been used in private homes extensively in the past although it is now less popular simply due to the change in interior trends. The type of maintenance that it required was treatment with linseed oil and wax or sealing with a synthetic sealant. The traditional oil and wax method involved applying several coats of linseed oil with a soft cloth after the tiles were laid but before the grouting was done. The oil would darken the natural terracotta colour and once dry the routing was done and was followed by a coat of clear wax. The disadvantage of this method was that the wax needed to be reapplied regularly to maintain the sheen and would eventually have to be stripped off and the waxing process started again. Understandably this is the process that deters people from using terracotta.

The less traditional approach requires applying several coats of a synthetic sealant which can last for up to 3 years and never needs to be stripped back as it can just be applied over the existing sealer to revitalise the finish.

However, neither approach could be termed “low-maintenance” but, fortunately, for those who love the rustic charm and warm tones of terracotta some manufacturers are now manufacturing glazed terracotta tiles which genuinely are low maintenance.

All terracotta tiles are made from a workable mixture of clay and water that is shaped as required and then left to dry naturally before being fired in a kiln. Whilst the technique is ancient there have been considerable improvements in its implementation due to technological advances which have enabled terracotta tiles to be created with a glazed surface.

The clay used to make terracotta tiles is extracted from a quarry and grinding machines are usually used to reduce the clay to a powder. The water is then added to form a paste and the tiles can either be created by hand, for a more rustic look, or by machine, for a sleeker, more modern look.

Once dry the kiln-firing of the tiles is done with the high temperatures making a tougher, more stable glazed terracotta tile. Because of the high-temperature glazing these types of tiles need none of the tedious maintenance procedures that the more traditional, unglazed tiles require. Yet they have the look and feel of a hand made tile with natural variations in colour adding to their unique beauty without the maintenance headache.

Glazed terracotta tiles are typically supplied in batches that have a range of colours within the same colour spectrum to ensure your floor will never look bland and “too perfect”. Mass produced ceramic tiles or porcelain tiles can never achieve this type of unique beauty because every tile is the same.

A few final considerations:

• Safety – remember that highly polished surfaces can be slippery when wet so may not be the best choice in bathrooms or wetrooms.
• Samples – make sure to view samples in your own home under your own lighting conditions (not the bright lights of a showroom)
• Cost – shop around for bulk buys, discontinued lines and special purchases of natural stone. You won’t regret choosing them

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You need to start by marking horizontal and vertical lines on each wall or wall section which will act as a guide when fixing the wall tiles. The best place for the horizontal starting line is just above the sink and toilet cistern so they do not break the continuous line around the room. But it also important that this line does not then leave a small section of tile above the bath – this will depend very much on the size of the tiles you have chosen.

A good way to get the right height for this line is to divide the height of the bathroom in half, then use that line to mark the position of each tile below the line until you reach the bath. If less than half a tile height is left just above the bath then adjust the starting line up or down until either exactly half a tile or a whole tile will be positioned above the bath edge – don’t forget to take into account the width of the grouting. Once you are happy with the line for the bath you then have to check it for all the other major elements of your bathroom such as the window, sink, toilet etc. to make sure no narrow strips are left in obvious areas. If there is no option but to have some narrow strips somewhere (which is often the case) then try to arrange the layout so that they appear above doors or windows or near the floor i.e. away from normal sightlines. With a bit of trial and error you should be able to establish a good horizontal guide line – now mark it clearly on the wall using a spirit level to make sure it is perfectly straight.

Next , you need to establish your vertical guide line in a similar way. Start by marking a line half-way along the longest wall and, again using your tile width plus the grout joint width, check all corners and edges of your sanitary ware to make sure there are no narrow strips of tile in the most obvious locations. Most rooms and corners are not entirely square so starting tiling from the middle of the wall will create a balanced layout. If you start in one corner and it is not perfectly square then by the time you reach the next corner you risk the tiles looking skewed as the tiles at the top of the room could be wider than at the bottom, or vice versa.

Finally mark vertical centre point lines on all the other walls in the same way and with your wall surfaces well prepared and your layout guide lines marked you are finally ready to start spreading the adhesive and fixing the wall tiles of your choice whether they are ceramic wall tiles, porcelain tiles or one of the variety of natural stone wall tiles. Look out for the next article in this series on how to install your chosen tiles…

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There are several steps to getting the perfect, professional finish to your wall tiling project – preparing the surface, marking out the layout, using the right adhesive, using tile spacers and regularly checking your horizontal and vertical lines are level as you work. But even if you do all of these things properly you could ruin the end result if the cut tiles are done badly.

Tiling with whole tiles is relatively easy – it is easy for a room to look almost finished quite quickly but it is the accuracy of the finishing where the ceiling and floor join the walls, and around doorways, windows, units and sanitary ware that will reveal how professional your tiling really looks. So if you aspire to be a really competent DIY tiler you need to get your cuts right. Whilst many cut edges may be hidden under sinks or units etc. the majority of them will be on show at the corners of walls and the junctions of walls with the floor and ceiling. Particularly in places like bathrooms many awkward cuts will be needed to finish tiling around sinks, toilets and other sanitary ware.

Selecting the right tools is the important first step, but, of course, the tools you use to cut the tiles will be dependent on which type of tiling you are installing. More and more wall tiles are now porcelain rather than ceramic so the relatively simple method of scoring a ceramic tile and breaking it along the score line cannot be used with porcelain tiles because they are too hard. Natural stone tiles are becoming more affordable and more and more people are choosing them for their bathrooms and kitchens but these again are too hard to score and break. So you are almost sure to need an electric tile cutter but the question is – what type? There are angle grinders and wet cutters and diamond cutters so for the non-professional the decision on which type of cutter to buy or hire is vital if you don’t want to spend excessive amounts of time cutting and if you don’t want to ruin too many of your brand new tiles.

It may be a case of trial and error depending on the specific type of wall tiles you have so it is often best to hire a cutter rather than buying one so that you can try it out. If you can, try and get some advice from a professional tiler, tile shop or hire shop on the most suitable cutter for your tiles.

Now start by measuring the space for each individual tile section just above the floor or below the ceiling and in the corners of the room. These are the simplest sections to start with but don’t assume the space is the same between the last full row or column of tiles and the edge because rooms are very rarely “square”. Measure and mark each tile on the back with the cutting line using a pencil – don’t use a felt tip pen as this might discolour the grout once it’s applied.

Continue to measure, mark and cut all the tiles that are an approximate square or rectangular shape remembering that some of the shapes might be “skewed” if the walls, floor or ceiling are crooked. Don’t forget to check that any pattern on the tile is the right way up before marking the cutting line.

Many people choose to use angle grinders for certain types of natural stone although it very much depends on how hard the tiles actually are (some limestone, for example, is quite soft but other types extremely hard). A better option is often a good electric tile cutter but even with a good quality machine the final edge as you come to the end of the cut can often be damaged. If this happens then try cutting part-way from one edge of the tile and then starting from the other end and finishing near the middle.

Once all these straightforward cuts are made and the tiles fixed in place, the room will definitely be looking more finished with only the final odd-shaped tile sections left to cut and install. These irregular shapes are often the most difficult to cut but they do not have to be perfectly accurate as the grout can be used to fill irregular gaps. Use a manual tool such as a tile saw or tile nibbler to cut the required shape – always working with the glazed or top surface of the tile uppermost and cutting downwards only. This will prevent any serious damage to the visible surface.

Where you need to cut a curved edge on the tile, start by marking a straight line and cutting off as much of the unwanted tile with a straight cut before using the tile saw and then nibbler to get a neat curved edge.

Remember that the type of tile that you are cutting will affect your choice of tools and your ability to create a professional finish. Ceramic tiles are the easiest to cut with minimal damage and you can generally use manual tools; porcelain tiles are very hard and will require an electric cutter and so too will most natural stone tiles.

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